When your greyhound comes home for the first time, be ready. You should have an elevated feeder in place, your dog's beds where you want them, and the yard and home should be secure and free from hazards. Friends and family should be advised to visit in a few days. Your dog will look for his water bowl and food bowl and lock that into memory. His bed will be a comfort, and he will want to use it. A quiet and calm introduction to his new home will be helpful to his adaptation.

Even though your greyhound has likely already spent some time in a foster home, your home is different, and everything will be new again. Consider trying the following home preparation tips to make your dog's experience a positive one and to help prevent problem behaviors from developing. These tips will also help dogs who have been in a home for a while but are still acclimating.

Preparation and Decisions

To smooth your greyhound’s transition to your home, make rules ahead of time, and be consistent. Don’t change the rules on what is acceptable on a daily basis; your dog will do better with a routine. Before bringing him home, make decisions on the following issues:

• Where will he sleep?

• Where and when will he eat?

• Who will walk him?

The answers, once set in your mind, will lower your stress levels and allow you to enjoy the new companion in your home.

TRAINING

Obedience training is an excellent way to bond with your greyhound. You get to spend a valuable amount of one-on-one time with your dog. Obedience, however, can be difficult with greyhounds, especially the "sit" command. Some greyhounds may never sit but can instead learn a "down" command or can simply stand in place calmly (which is much more common). Your trainer should be willing to work with you in order to accommodate you and your greyhound. Many times, obedience training benefits dog owners even more than the dogs. If you are a first-time dog owner, you should consider obedience training as a necessary tool to a successful adoption.

Your adoption packet should contain information about discounted training sessions with A Sound Beginning in the Chicagoland area.

Some greyhounds also enjoy flyball or agility training, which is another great way to bond with your hound.

Using a Crate

Borrow or buy a crate and use it when you can’t be home to supervise your hound. Greyhounds require a Large or Extra Large crate size (at least approx. 42” L x 30” H). A crate is not cruel or a punishment. Your greyhound spent much of its racing life in crates, and it can be considered your dog's best friend. By confining your dog to a crate when you are not home, you prevent him from making housebreaking mistakes or engaging in destructive behavior. Do not put water or food in the crate with your dog, as he will end up drinking or eating and have to relieve himself. Do not leave things like stuffy toys that can become a choking hazard. Also be sure to remove her collar or harness when crated. (Harnesses can be chewed, and collars can get caught on the crate wire and cause serious injury.)

For the comfort of your dog, a blanket or kennel mat should be used on the floor of the crate. Many greyhounds do not like to lie on hard surfaces, and this will protect elbows and add extra warmth to your dog's surroundings. Keep the crate in a room where your hound is comfortable, such as the living room or a bedroom he is familiar with. Stuffing the crate in a room that isn’t used can cause him to become anxious.

Don’t think you will save a few dollars and close your greyhound in a room. Greyhounds are visual animals who need to see what is around them, and most likely they will try to get out. Significant damage to doors and door frames have resulted when this method of "crating" has been used.

Your hound should not be crated for extremely long periods of time; an average work day of eight hours is the time limit of most greyhounds. If you will be gone longer than eight hours, you should find someone who can let the dog out to relieve herself and allow her to drink.

It is possible to overuse a crate. Your greyhound will want to be with you and the rest of your family when you are home, so avoid keeping your greyhound in his crate when you are there. Exceptions include times when your greyhound is still acclimating and you are busy and can’t adequately supervise him. Never use the crate as a punishment. The crate is a training tool and not a storage area for your pet.

Sleeping & Napping

Greyhounds generally spend about 18 hours a day sleeping. Plan to provide dog beds in all rooms where you and your family spend time. He needs a comfortable place to nap, and the bed also serves as a “timeout” area where the dog can go and observe but not be an active participant.

When everyone is retiring for the evening, your greyhound should sleep either in their crate or on a dog bed or blanket on the floor in your bedroom. Keep the dog in the room and use a baby gate or a door to prevent them from wandering the house at night. A dog left to wander can get into danger or leave a mess. It can be possible for greyhounds to sleep in a different room than its family, but especially while still acclimating, this usually causes a lot of stress and anxiety. You will most likely be unable to sleep due to excessive whining and barking.

Greyhounds Only STRONGLY advises against allowing greyhounds on human furniture of any kind until the dog has been in the home at least 6 months. This initial timeframe will allow both adopter and adoptee to get to know one another, learn the rules and understand the hierarchy and expectations. Too much privilege too soon here may allow the dog to believe that he is the alpha in your family and these spaces are HIS.

Make sure that children know that crates and dog beds are out of bounds. Sleeping greyhounds can “sleep startle” and this can be avoided by following the old proverb: let sleeping doge lie. Greyhounds are prone to track dreams, where they move their paws and vocalize while dreaming of their past race experiences. NEVER reach down and touch a sleeping greyhound while it is track dreaming. A dog that is touched at this stage of sleep can growl, snap, and could bite. It’s a very frightening experience, but it is an unintentional reaction to being awoken suddenly. Always call your greyhound's name and let her eyes open and acknowledge your presence.

Food, Feeding and Treats

Your greyhound's foster family has been feeding your dog a high-quality dog kibble. To avoid giving your hound diarrhea, mix this food with your new food (if you intend to change your dog's diet we recommend against a grain-free recipe) with the ratio of one part new food to two parts current food. Taper this ratio for several days until he has been weaned to his new diet exclusively.

The average amount to feed your greyhound is 2 to 4 cups of food per day, in divided feedings. Ask your foster family how much they have been feeding. (Most recommendations on dog food bags do not always apply to greyhounds, as they have a disproportionate amount of body muscle.) How much is too much? You should be able to see (and feel) the last two to three ribs of your greyhound. Greyhounds are not built to be overweight, and this is very damaging to their overall health.

While your hound is acclimating to your home, you may consider feeding him in his crate. This reinforces the idea that the crate is a safe and enjoyable place for him. Alternatively, if your greyhound seems self-assured enough, you may start feeding him at his elevated feeder right away. Always give your dog room while he is eating. He shouldn’t feel like you are hovering over him, possibly trying to steal his food from him.

Always make sure your dog has plenty of fresh, clean water available in his elevated feeder. If you crate your dog, do not provide water in the crate, but make sure that he has sufficient access each day.

Treats are acceptable in moderation. These should not be the main course for your greyhound—they should be used as the "dessert."

There are many non-rawhide digestible chews which are great treats, and your dog will enjoy gnawing on these. Always give these when you are at home to supervise your dog so that she doesn’t choke or the bone doesn’t become stuck around your dog's jaw. American-made brands might be a safer option versus those made in other countries with less transparency in sourcing and ingredients.

Large raw (femur) marrow bones are another treat that your dog can have. These are usually wrapped, sometimes stuffed and found on pet supply store shelves. Occasionally you can find them raw in the refrigerated section at boutique pet stores. If you know a reputable and trusted butcher you can ask for them at the meat counter but make sure they are large, not the cut discs. Bones should be given raw, as cooked bones can splinter and harm your dog. DO NOT USE SOUP BONES. Soup bones and knuckle bones can also splinter.

You can give your hound human food as a treat, but there are many foods you should avoid. In particular, avoid onions, which can cause anemia by breaking down the red blood cells found in the bloodstream. Also avoid chocolate, which contains theobromine-a compound which is toxic to dogs and can cause death in certain cases. If your dog happens to eat a few pieces of chocolate, be sure to carefully monitor him. It generally takes about a quarter pound of chocolate to cause a reaction, but don't take it this far. You are gambling with your dog's life. Please see Hazardous Foods and Plants for a more complete list of toxic foods.

Housebreaking

Your greyhound has likely lived in a foster home for a bit and is probably housebroken. Keep in mind that for most of its life your greyhound has been let out on a schedule, and may take some time to tell you that she needs to go out. The signals your dog may use can be very subtle and easily missed. Let your hound out often and accompany her even if she is "turned out" in a secure fenced area. The foster family probably used a specific word or phrase to associate with going out, so you may use it. Praise the dog and give her a treat when she has done the right thing. If your dog accidentally attempts to relieve herself in the house, a loud "NO!" in a deep booming voice is usually sufficient to stop her. Put the dog out immediately and praise her when she relieves herself outdoors. If you catch the dog in the process of relieving herself in the house, say, "Bad dog! NO!" NEVER hit the dog or rub her nose in it; she knows she made a mistake. A dog wants to please you and does not like to be reprimanded. She will know that what she did was bad.

Most importantly, be realistic in your expectations about how long your dog can "hold it." Someone else’s dog may be able to go all day without an accident but that is a dog that is accustomed to his surroundings. Your greyhound is probably nervous, drinking more water than he normally would, and he may have diarrhea due to stress. For the first three weeks, it’s a good idea to come home at lunch (or have someone come home) to let the dog out.

Some carpet cleaning products that you can use are as follows:

• Simple Solution (available at most pet stores)

• Nature’s Miracle cleaners

• Bissell Stomp ‘n Go Pet Stain Lifting Pads

• Resolve carpet cleaner

• Woolite carpet cleaner

• 1 tsp. clear vinegar and 1 tsp. dishwashing liquid in 1 quart of water

• Steam cleaner with appropriate solution

Exercise

If you have a secure fenced-in yard, your greyhound will like to run in it. Most of the time, your dog will have a good sprint for a minute or two and then your dog will come inside and sleep! Your dog is a pet now and doesn’t need extremes. A run in the yard or a few daily walks will be just the right thing.

If a family member wants the greyhound to jog with him or her, work up the dog to longer distances slowly. Greyhounds are short sprinters and do not do long distances. Patience and concern for your dog will work best. Just as you get aches and pains, your dog can too! Many greyhounds, when they are on the track, will run and give it their all, but an injured dog can sometimes do this as well and create a major injury where a minor one existed. Watch your dog and remember to go slowly. Footpads on a track dog are soft due to the fact that the dogs run on sand. By working up to your goal slowly, the footpads will toughen up, and calluses will be formed. Your hound will be footing it with you in no time.

Coats, Evaporative Cooling Blankets and Pools

Greyhounds have very little body fat and are susceptible to temperature extremes.

In summer, avoid walking or jogging with your dog during the hottest part of the day. If you are out for a longer walk or are attending an outdoor event, be sure to bring and provide plenty of water for your hound to drink. You can also consider providing a cooling blanket, which is a cloth cover pre-moistened with water and worn like a coat. (A towel can be used for this purpose.) The evaporation of water provides cooling. At home, your greyhound may enjoy a baby pool filled with water in the yard. Do not leave your dog in a closed car even for short periods of time—the result of this action can be death! Heat exposure can cause heat stroke. If you see any signs of heat stroke, such as relentless panting, oral mucous membranes that are dry and brick red in color, or signs of weakness, cool the dog with COOL water using a sponge or garden hose. Do not use very cold or icy water because this will constrict the skin's blood vessels and retain the heat in the body's core. Call your vet or an emergency vet, as secondary complications are common, even after the body temperature has fallen. Preventing heat stroke is far better than treating it.

When the temperature dips below 32 degrees F, your dog should wear a coat on walks. A coat will keep his body temperature from falling. A snood or hood will protect your dog's ears from becoming frostbitten. Boots are a good idea as well. These keep ice, snow, and salt from packing between the foot pads. Greyhounds that are out too long in cold weather may lift their feet when they get too cold. Be careful to get your dog inside if you notice this behavior. Some greyhounds just lie down in the snow and won’t walk if their paws get too cold. A greyhound can be very heavy to carry. A shivering dog is most likely a cold dog; bring your dog inside if you notice this. Frostbite is a potential health hazard to greyhound ears and feet during cold temperatures. Never leave your dog outside for extended periods and always supervise your dog at these times.